235
VIDEO PRESERVES: ARCHIVING VIDEO TAPES

Note: Archiving DVDs is part of the booklet
"DVDs and 
Interactive Video", that comes free with my 4th ed. of 
Today's Video. Now for archiving video tape:
Cherished moments on videotape: we make them
first, then 
we try to make them last. Through this magic ribbon
called 
videotape, we can laugh at ourselves as infants,
remember the 
sweet joy of Grandpa's smile, or record the antics
of our 
children to show to their children. All over the
world family 
histories are being archived, but some of these
priceless tapes 
will not survive. The laws of physics and the
ravages of time 
and environment all conspire to transform our
pretty pictures and 
sound into bands of snow and wavy lines. We cannot
break the 
laws of physics but we can mitigate against many
of tape's 
enemies: heat, humidity, magnetism, dirt, pressure,
shock, and 
poor recording practices.
Not an archival medium -
Let's get the bad news over with: videotape is not an 
archival medium. Videotapes made thirty years
ago are barely 
playable, even in the tender, loving hands of
an experienced 
technician. Common videotapes recorded and played
back on common 
VCRs by common nontechnical people, may last about
15 years. 
There are some unknowns in this estimate; tape is made better
than it used to be. It may last longer than 15
years but we 
won't know until enough time goes by to see how
it survives. 
Most experts agree, however, that tape cannot endure generation
after generation like slides and photographs do.
More bad news: The videotape is not your big problem, your
VCR is. Video recorders change over the years,
each type 
incompatible with the format that came before.
Think back to your super 8 movies. Do you still have a
projector to play them on? Those of you with long
gray whiskers 
may remember regular 8 movies. Those projectors
are so old that 
nobody makes parts for them, so you'd better treat
them like the 
precious antiques that they are. And remember
Great Grandma's 
stereopticon, a 3-D viewer to display postcard-like
photos? 
No matter what method you use to record your magnetic
memories, you will have a hard time finding a
machine to play 
them on twenty or thirty years from now. If you
record your 
children on VHS, you may want to buy a "spare"
VCR and keep it in 
mint condition along with your tapes. And if it
does break 
thirty years from now, there surely won't be parts
for it. 
Hopefully, someone somewhere will have a VHS machine that works.
Copying is no solution-
You paid $700 for that Betamax video recording of your
wedding 15 years ago. The original tapes were
edited down to a 
beautiful 30 minute masterpiece (second generation)
which was 
copied (third generation) to share with your friends.
Since 
there are not many Betamaxes around, you figure
it might be wise 
to copy your beta tape over onto a VHS tape (fourth
generation, 
if you do it from a copy). Fifteen years from
now, when VHS VCRs 
are rare, maybe you'll find an old one and duplicate
your VHS 
tape onto your new digital videodisk recorder
(fifth generation). 
What do you suppose you'll see? Most likely mush. Your
grandchildren will wonder why you made a tape
of penguins 
mumbling in a snowstorm and titled it "Our
Wedding." 
Eighteen Do's and Don'ts of Tape Care -
Okay, you took all that bad news pretty well. Fortunately,
there are some things you can do to preserve your
tape treasures.
1. Don't store your tape in a hot place such as
the dashboard of 
your car on a sunny day, or atop a heating radiator.
The 
cassette shell will warp and shrivel up like bacon.
2. Do keep your tape in a dry place. Tapes enjoy the same
temperature and humidity that people do. Leaving
a tape in a 
damp basement will cause it to absorb moisture.
Mildew may even 
grow inside the cassette, instantly causing head
clogs. Also, 
high humidity promotes binder hydrolysis causing
the tape to act 
sticky.
3. Don't play the tape in a malfunctioning VCR.
When a VCR 
"eats" a tape, that part of your tape
will be gone for good.
4. Don't store tapes near electromagnetic fields like those
around electric motors, high intensity lamp bases,
televisions, 
computers, power transformers, and loudspeakers.
Leaving your 
tapes lying atop your TV set will slowly erase
them.
5. Don't place your cassettes on a carpet or slide
their boxes 
around on a carpet. Carpets create copious static
electricity 
which attracts dust, just the thing your videocassette
doesn't 
want.
6. Do keep videotapes away from small children. Sticky, curious
fingers can deposit head-clogging oils on the
tape, or cause 
folds and bumps in the tape. Goodness knows what
teething saliva 
does to a videocassette.
7. Do keep the temperature and humidity steady.
Wide 
environmental swings cause the tape to expand
and contract, 
causing stresses that stretch the tape.
8. Do acclimate tapes before playing them. They
should be the 
same temperature as the machine that plays them.
If you bring a 
cold tape into a warm room, it will collect condensation
just 
like a glass of iced tea. Seal the tape in a plastic
bag and let 
it sit for a few hours and it will warm up while
staying dry.
This technique applies in the winter when you take your tape from
a cold car to the house, or in the summer when
you take your tape 
from the air-conditioned indoors to the humid
outdoors; sealing 
the tape keeps it dry.
9. Don't store your tape half played; it leaves
a bump in the 
tape. Winding the tape to the beginning or end
will place the 
bump harmlessly on the tape leader.
10. Store tapes upright rather than flat. Sometimes
the tape 
winds or unwinds unevenly leaving tiny ridges
sticking out from 
the roll. When the tape lies flat, those ridges
rub against the 
sides of the cassette fraying them.
11. Do "exercise" tapes once every year or so by winding
them to 
the end and rewinding them. This relaxes the tape,
reducing 
stresses that build up over time. Before playing
a tape that 
hasn't been played for years, also wind it to
the end and rewind 
it to the beginning before you play it; the relaxed
tape is less 
likely to exhibit flagwaving and tracking problems.
12. Do handle tapes gently. Banging cassettes
around will 
damage exposed edges, affecting your sound or
tracking. Keep 
precious tapes protected in hard, vinyl boxes,
the kinds used at 
video rental stores. These will keep your cassettes
dust free, 
and safe from being squashed.
13. Do make a copy at the first sign of tape degradation.
Although you go down one generation in quality, you may be able
to salvage the recording before the original tape
becomes totally 
unplayable.
14. Do label your tapes lest you accidentally record "Mork
and 
Mindy" reruns over Baby's first steps.
15. Do record important events on new, high-quality
videotape. 
Although the words "high grade" does not guarantee that
the 
videotape is superior, with a little reading and
experimentation, 
you can settle on a brand and type of tape that
works well for 
you.
16. Record important events at the standard play
(SP) mode. 
Tapes recorded at the extended play (EP) speed have their
magnetism jammed too tightly together to yield
an optimal 
picture. Also, age causes slow-playing tapes to
exhibit 
flagwaving and mistracking. In addition, EP tapes
play poorly on 
VCRs that are not perfectly adjusted.
17. Avoid the super thin, long-play tapes. Use
standard 
thickness (T120, or their 120 minute HI8 counterparts)
to assure 
that the tape will stretch the least amount. 
18. When possible, use a super VHS or HI8 VCR with its
corresponding super tape to record the sharpest
and smoothest 
picture.
No matter how well you care for your tape, the machine you
play it on is crucial. A well-maintained VCR will
treat your tape 
gently and play it accurately. If you are really
planning to 
keep a video archive for twenty years or more,
you may want to 
purchase a good quality VCR and seal it in a cool,
dry time 
capsule along with your tapes. Run the VCR a couple
times a year 
just to exercise the rubber parts and distribute
the lubrication. 
Select a tape machine with direct drive motors that don't have
rubber belts to dry out and slip or snap. And
if you are really 
serious about archiving your videotape, ask your
local repairman 
what parts you should buy (while they are still
available) to 
place in the time capsule with your VCR.
TABLE 1
HOME VIDEOTAPE RECORDERS THROUGH THE AGES, NEARLY ALL 
INCOMPATIBLE WITH EACH OTHER.
1956 
See-Hear Home Video System - Announced by RCA
but was never 
seen or heard of again. 
1965 Ampex Signature VI VCR - Featured longitudinal recording
to 
record 25 minutes of video on a reel of tape.
The 1/4" 
tape moved at a whopping 100 inches per second.
Sony Consumer Video (CV) System - Reels of half-inch tape
stored a black-and-white picture. Using a "skip
field" 
recording system, every other video picture was
skipped. 
1969 
Akai - Two systems using 1/4" tape on open
reels. One made 
black-and-white, the other color recordings. 
1971 
Electron Video Recording - Video cartridge system
that 
played back images on a TV set from film. It couldn't
record, just play. 
1972 
Cartrivision - Two reels of 1/2" tape were
stacked one on 
top of the other in a clunky cassette roughly
the size of a 
hardcover book. Also used "skip-field"
recording, but at 
least it was in color. 
U-Matic - Three-quarter inch tape inside a cassette the
size of a box of candy. This is the only "old"
format that 
is still in use, although superseded by U-Matic
SP 
(Superior Performance). 
1975 
Panasonic's Omnivision I - Housed a single reel
of tape in 
a cartridge and wound the tape onto a take-up
reel inside 
the transport. This meant that you could never
remove a 
cassette in the middle of a program. 
Betamax - Sony's color videocassette recorder
capable of 
recording one hour. First popular home VCR.
1976 
The Great Time Machine - Using the VX format invented
by 
Matshusita, recorded 2 hours on 1/2" tape
in a cassette 
that was a mechanical nightmare. Faye Dunaway
used a Great 
Time Machine in the 1978 movie The Eyes of Laura
Mars. 
1977 
V-Cord I and V-Cord II - Black-and-white V-Cord
I stored 20 
minutes of black-and-white tape in a cassette.
V-Cord II 
added color and introduced a slower speed to extend
recording time and was one of the first formats
to offer 
freeze frame and slow motion. 
VHS - Introduced by JVC and Matshusita, put two
hours on a 
tape. Throughout 1977, tape speed wars saw Beta
II counter 
with a three hour tape, VHS followed with a four
hour 
length, Beta III then offered five hours, and
VHS mopped up 
the competition with six hour recording.
1978 
VCR - Invented by the Dutch electronics giant
Philips. 
They also invented the name VCR but could only register the
trademark in Europe. The name caught on much better
than 
the machines which stacked one reel of tape above
the 
other.
Video 2000 - Using 1/2" videotape, this Philips and Grundig
machine played 1/4" of the tape in one direction.
You would 
then flip the tape over and play the other half
in the 
other direction. 
1980 
8mm - Proffered by Sony and 127 other leading
consumer 
electronics manufacturers. Introduced high density
recording on audiocassette-sized 8mm tape.
1982 
Video Showcase - Japan's Funai joined forces with
Technicolor to create the compact videocassette
(CVC) 
system, the lightest and most portable recording
system of 
its time using 1/4" cassettes that could
record 30 minutes. 
VHS-C - Miniature videocassette the size of a
deck of cards 
that holds regular VHS tape that requires an adapter
to 
play the miniscule tape in a regular VHS VCR.
1987 
SVHS - JVC's improved VHS recording system made
a sharper 
picture but required special tape. SVHS VCRs can
also 
record and playback VHS tapes. 
ED-Beta - Improved version of Betamax offered
by Sony to 
outdo SVHS. A fine machine but too expensive.
1996 
DV - Digital Video, available in $2000 - 3000
camcorders 
and a few professional decks. Professional DVCAM
and 
DVCPRO models can play consumer DV tapes, but
consumer 
decks can not play the pro tapes.
What new, incompatible format will next year bring making
our tape libraries obsolete? Maybe HDTV videotape?
TABLE 2
HOW VIDEOTAPE WORKS (Or Doesn't Work)
Videotape is a plastic ribbon impregnated with a 
magnetizable metal powder. Before recording, the
particles are 
oriented randomly. During recording, the video
heads create 
magnetism that orient the particles in certain
directions. Thus 
video signals are converted into magnetic patterns
on the tape. 
When the tape is played back, video heads again pass over the
magnetic powder and sense the magnetic vibrations
and convert 
these vibrations back into a video signal.
Video signals consist of millions of electrical
vibrations 
each second. Each vibrations represents a tiny
piece of your 
picture. If you lose just one vibration for any
reason, you will 
see a momentary speck on your screen rather than
the piece of 
picture that belonged there. This momentary loss
of picture is 
called a dropout.
Tiny particles of dust, dirt, smoke, loose powder from the
tape, or debris from the cassette housing can
get between the 
spinning video heads and the magnetic coating,
losing the signal 
for a moment. Dropouts also result when some of
the magnetic 
surface flakes off the tape, taking a piece of
picture with it. 
A fold or a scratch on the tape is a million times larger than
a 
dust particle and can cause picture disruptions
lasting several 
seconds. A scratch or fold along the length of
your tape could 
ruin your whole program. Playing chewed-up tape
is also 
hazardous to your heads. The delicate spinning
video heads could 
snag on a "pothole" in the tape and
become chipped. You will see 
a half snowy or totally snowy picture, and the
only cure will be 
to replace the VCR heads, probably costing $35
for the heads and 
$75 for the labor.
Less serious, but the symptoms are the same, are
clogged 
video heads. Here dirt or shedding magnetic powder
jams itself 
inside the tiny gap in the heads that senses the
magnetism. This 
rather common condition can usually be cured by
playing a head 
cleaning videocassette that, hopefully, wipes
away the dirt. 
Hi fi sound is sometimes recorded along with the
video, and 
it can drop out too. Normal, low fidelity sound
is recorded on a 
linear track along the edge of the videotape.
Damage to the edge 
of the tape can mangle this sound.
On the opposite edge of the tape is the control track, a
series of magnetic pulses that guide the spinning
video heads so 
that they precisely follow the magnetic paths
on the tape (and 
don't play between the paths). Damage to this
edge of the tape 
will cause your picture to roll or mistrack; a
band of hash may 
run across part of your picture.
Tape, being a long plastic ribbon, can contract
and stretch 
depending on temperature, humidity, cassette tightness,
and 
tightness of your rollers inside your VCR. When
the tape 
stretches or contracts even a tiny amount, it
changes the 
positions of the magnetic paths, making it hard
for the tape 
heads to follow. This sometimes causes your picture
to jitter, 
especially at the top, or to flagwave, flopping
back and forth at 
the top. As the condition worsens, your picture
folds into 
diagonal lines. Sometimes tape stretching causes
your video 
player to mistrack, again causing a band of hash
to run across 
part of your TV screen. 
TABLE 3
MEASURING TAPE
Videotape is manufactured under exacting conditions. A
precise amount of magnetic powder is impregnated
into the tape 
(or in the case of metal evaporated --- ME ---tape,
just the 
right amount of metal is evaporated onto the tape).
The 
particles of powder are small and are packed tightly
in a certain 
orientation to maximize their magnetizability.
Greater magnetic density is one of the major differences
between the various grades of videotape. High
grade tape uses 
smaller particles in a greater concentration than
normal grade 
cassettes. This results in a smoother (less grainy)
picture and 
a stronger retention of the magnetic patterns.
High grade tapes 
often deliver truer colors, smoother pictures,
and better sound 
than their normal grade brothers, even when recorded
at the 
slower EP speed.
Super VHS and HI8 formulations pack the magnetic particles
even more densely, and use particles that hold
more magnetism, 
resulting in sharper, smoother pictures than their
high grade 
brothers. It takes a super VHS or HI8 VCR to record
on these 
special tapes.
Although various tape formulations differ somewhat
in how 
well they record hi fi sound, there is no such
thing as "hi fi" 
videotape. Manufacturers just put the words on
the box to 
improve sales.
The actual difference between the performance
of one 
manufacturer's "hi grade" tape and other
manufacturer's "normal" 
tape may be very small. It is hard to separate
the hype from the 
facts when it comes to "hi grade" tape.
Even from batch to 
batch, one manufacturer's tape may have some cassettes
that out 
perform others. Although there are laboratory
tape tests 
appearing in various video and consumer magazines,
the test don't 
always take into account how the tapes will play
on your machine. 
For instance, a tape that gives a very sharp picture on one
person's machine may yield a slightly grainy picture
on 
another's. The best bet is to try several types
of name brand 
videocassettes on your VCR and judge for yourself
which ones look 
the best. Avoid the "off brand" and
"white box" cassettes found 
at discount stores. Some may be okay, but they
are less reliable 
than the major players such as Fuji, JVC, Panasonic,
Scotch (3M), 
Sony, TDK, Denon, and Maxell. 
TABLE 4
THE 8MM STORY
When 8mm and Hi8 mm tape first came out, it immediately
suffered a bad reputation, especially the metal
evaporated (ME) 
formulations. There were stories of massive dropouts,
headclogs, 
stretching, and the inability to stand up to the
rigors of 
editing. Even to this day, some manufacturers
describe 8mm tape 
as an "acquisition" medium (where the
tapes run through the 
camcorder once while recording in the field),
rather than an 
editing or archival medium (where the tapes are
shuttled back and 
forth, still framed, rethreaded, and replayed
many times). 
So what's the story today; can 8mm tape be trusted
with 
your family memories?
According to several manufacturers I called, recent
8mm 
tape formulations have surmounted all of the problems
experienced 
in the early days. The magnetic surface has a
smoother, harder 
protective covering, and the tape stock itself
is stronger and 
less likely to stretch. All agreed, however, that
MP (metal 
particle) tape is little hardier than its ME (metal
evaporated) 
counterpart. ME affords better specs (stronger
signal retention, 
higher signal-to-noise ratio, sharper pictures,
purer colors) but 
may be too flimsy for editing. Sensing a niche,
Fuji has 
introduced an "ME Position" tape that
has the high performance of 
ME tape, but is really souped-up MP tape with
the durability of 
MP tape.
Not trusting the manufacturers unconditionally,
I called a 
couple heavy 8mm users to see if they had experienced
any 
trouble.
Pat Navagato of Nova Video Productions in Harrisburg, VA,
who does a lot of industrial and wedding recordings
in Hi8 felt 
that the format "performed much better than
the bandwagon of 
negative publicity would lead you to believe."
On his Sony and 
Fuji stock, he typically sees only 3 or 4 tiny
dropouts every 2 
hour tape. His 4 year old ME and MP tapes still
play well, 
although his ME tapes look better to him. Any
problems he's 
seen, he attributes to his camcorder, feeling
that if you run the 
tape through a clean, good quality, well-adjusted
camcorder, you 
should get good results.
David Rapp of Custom Video Services in Reno, NV,
runs 
thousands of Hi8 tapes through his editing and
film transfer 
service each year. He recommends mastering on
8mm ME tape 
because:
1. The high energy tape is harder to erase (thus
holds its 
magnetism better). 
2. Is small enough to conveniently archive in
a safe 
deposit box. 
3. Because Hi8 is a bit rare, his clients come
back to him 
to make duplicates from the masters (no fool,
Dave). 
Custom Video shoots and edits in Hi8 using ME
tape and "has 
no problem with it holding up." He uses Sony
ME and Fuji M221E 
(the new Fuji "ME Position" formula)
tape with a Sony V5000 
camera and Sony CVD1000 source editing deck. He
too had some 
trouble at first with 8mm, but attributes it to
the equipment, 
not the tape. Contrary to popular opinion, Dave
feels that MP 
tape has more dropouts than ME. As for longevity,
Dave's been 
using Hi8 tape for 4 years and says "every
time I pull out an old 
tape, it's fine."
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